#Dorstenia Propagating Dorstenia gypsophila with cutting technique works most effectively, because it is very easy. Plus, the offspring produces more flowers and seeds from its new root system, but will not have a caudex. Generally, Dorstenia gypsophila does not have a large caudex anyway. Dorstenia gypsophila from its natural habitat or an aged one is not very productive, possibly because nutrients cannot reach its top shoots. Dorstenia gypsophila Stem Cuttings: Ensure that the plant is not in bloom or its flowers have withered. If it received any rain prior, allow at least 5-7 days before cutting, or the stem will rapidly dry and cause problems. Choose a stiff stem with coarse barks. Its green color should not be too light nor too dark. Cut the stem of about 3 inches long. Be sure to use a clean and very sharp razor blade to make the cutting. Once cut, the resin oozing out of the plant can be left as is, for it will cover the opening naturally when it dries. Red lime can be used instead if needed. Prune the leaves off the cut stem, except for the fresh ones at the tip. Naturally, all leaves will fall once the stem goes into the pot. Leaving them on may even bring fungal disease later. Wipe the resin oozing out of the cut stem opening, and dip the opening into rooting hormone. Leave it to dry for about 1-2 days. Before potting, bring the stem opening to dip into rooting hormone once more. Prepare a pot of corresponding size with the stem. The growing media uses our peat formula #Mixtureforsucculents. It should be prepared a few days prior to potting. Make a hole into the media and push the stem in deep enough for it not to topple easily. Press the media around the stem to make it stand firmly. At this point, no need for water sprinkle. When the pot looks about 80% dry, use water sprinkler from above. This helps the media to be denser. Whether the plant came from natural habitat or not, the cut stems take 3-5 weeks to recover and grow. If the pot feels light or its surface looks dry, it is time to water it with the sprinkler. Watering also helps thickening the media and supporting the stem to stand. This is its most fragile time and time is all it takes. All leaves will fall off and new ones will shoot indicating that new roots have grown. For more details, Please watch this vdo https://youtu.be/pK03MLNIB1w Let's chat FB messenger https://www.facebook.com/LittleOnePlantNursery/inbox This is the fastest way that we can communicate. Whatsapp: +6685 559 8598 Line: @litteoneplant Watch our other growing technique: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7hDtrZ2lNX1nuQ5qDL2Y9Q

#Dorstenia Here are some of the techniques to grow Dorstenia gypsophila seeds: Use small pots to distribute the seeds. Mr. Lek use 10 seeds per pot. This can both keep birds and nuisance away, and control damage in its own pot should one rot. Do not mix incompatible desert coconuts in the same pot in terms of germination rate, round leaf shape like Dorstenia foetida. Dorstenia lavrani and gypsophila can be on the same pot because the germination rates are close and they do not interfere with each other. Use coco-peat growing media formula found in #Mixtureforsucculents at Little One Plant Nursery. This formula can be used with all types of seeds. Prepare the media in the pot, water, and spray fungicide, such as Captan or Metalaxyl, on the surface. Strew the seeds, then a thin layer of pumice over the surface. But if using a large pot, the order of pumice and the seeds should reverse, because watering the surface will bring the seeds under the pumice eventually. Spray Captan or Metalaxyl again. The seeds should germinate within 5-7 days. Beyond that the chances of germination are very slim. During this 5-7 day waiting period, should the pot feel light or the moisture in the pot go lower than 20% or more than 80% look dry, then the pot should be watered. Set the pot on a water tray to allow it to absorb water. Do not sprinkle from above as it will cause the seeds to bounce off. Do not apply fertilizer or any antifungal spray when the seedlings are fragile because they will rot and die. When the seedling is about 1.5 inches tall, it can go into its own pot as the root system is still not very long, no need to clean, rendering the process of changing pot easy and safe. The seedling will recuperate quickly and the leaves will not fall off. For more details, Please watch this vdo https://youtu.be/zn2MHwSpadk Let's chat FB messenger https://www.facebook.com/LittleOnePlantNursery/inbox This is the fastest way that we can communicate. Whatsapp: +6685 559 8598 Line: @litteoneplant Watch our other growing technique: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7hDtrZ2lNX1nuQ5qDL2Y9Q

Dorstenia prefers sunlight of at least 80%, so while it is not too hot for breeders to work with, they can grow quite large. Since 2011, Mr. Lek received a variegated Dorstenia Lavranos 23877 from Mr. Suthichai, and had begun crossbreeding into a career. At the time Dorstenia Horwoodii, despite its rarity and heavy price tag, did not have good wavy leaf blades, unlike those in the market today. Nonetheless, Mr. Lek worked with what he had, and through time and perseverance, he successfully bred a potently variegated Dorstenia that had bright white-green contrast and wavy leaf blade. As he began his career, his breeding practice was both of organic and human-intervention propagation. Dorstenia Lavrani was his most preferred species to breed with others, since its genetic superiority would make the offspring to have similar features to D.Lavrani, having good thicket form, and silverish leaf color, for instance. The offspring turned out mostly unisex, infertile and had variegation level not so much different from its parents. This posted real challenge in his development. With other species than D.lavrani, breeders can let natural pollination to occur because they are bisexual. However, selecting good offsprings to work on is very critical to the development. Crossbreeding with D.lavrani would produce offspring looking similar to it, only with more vivid color. Most of them are infertile, so every seed that they can bear is priceless. Expensive species like gypsophila or giga may not be suitable to develop into hybrids, because the offspring would not look good. Mr. Lek stresses the importance of crossbreeding and selecting process. In every rendition, select variegated offsprings that have bright, contrast color, and evenly distributed throughout all leaves from bottom to top. Lastly, experts always say that smart purchase of a good plant to start breeding your own can save years of development down the line. For more details, Please watch this vdo https://youtu.be/XlAqYW00W98 Let's chat FB messenger https://www.facebook.com/LittleOnePlantNursery/inbox This is the fastest way that we can communicate. Whatsapp: +6685 559 8598 Line: @litteoneplant Watch our growing technique: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7hDtrZ2lNX1nuQ5qDL2Y9Q

Portrait of the winner brings the history and development of SWEETY to light, for its recent accolade “The Best” from Cactus & Succulent Fair 17th in Thailand. Sweety’s prime features are red lobed leaves. Its origin dated back in 2010 when Mr. Lek, Santiporn Sangchai bred Euphorbia francoisii var crassicaulis rubrifolia and Euphorbia francoisii “La rocca,” bought from Mr. Sutthichai, due to its peculiar form, but more particularly lobed leaves. Little did he knew that “La rocca" would bring him the prize winner and many more gorgeous plants years later. La rocca was used primarily in the beginning. In every generation ensued, seedlings with nice features, such as wider leaf base, red color more and more clarity, and good overall form, were selected to breed further. At first, consistency of such features was rare, but after 12 years, it has improved. Then came Sweety, and its prize “The Best” from Cactus & Succulent Fair 17th. Mr. Lek recognizes the leverage of having wide leaf base as the first feature he looked for to start his endeavor. In generations down the line, the leaves will only grow wider and shorter, thus, improved form. Those inspired to follow his footstep may consider shorten years of development by making smart investment for plants with good features to start their own development. For more information: https://youtu.be/SEs7xEzm14M

Hybrids among Aloe, Gasteria and Haworthia are creative. Mr. Lek suggests to select a female plant first then find a compatible male. Using a tiny brush, gently dab the tip of the bristle on male flower to collect the pollens, then on to the female. The pollination process should begin and pods are created. Crossbreeding is easily hindered if not seeing successful pollination, or worse still not producing desirable offspring. You need to gain experience to guess and to be creative of how the offspring would look like as well. Mr. Lek had successfully bred Haworthia koelmaniorum x Gasteria armstrongii. The lesson learned was to use H.Koel female flowers as its male had very limited number of pollens. After breeding with armstrongii the offspring bore many semblances of its parents, leaves, flowers, and seeds. Plus, the offspring was fertile. With more experiences, he crossbred Haworthia koelmaniorum x Aloe and it gave him so many offsprings. He began the process by eliminating stamen from Aloe flower, so stamen brought over from H.Koel would have no competition to pollinate with Aloe since it can produce many more seeds than H.Koel. For more information: https://youtu.be/iJszvJSxkxc Related topic: https://youtu.be/3G9o4VW4Cak #CreativeCrossbreedamongHaworthiaAloeandGasteria Star-studded Hybrids of Little One Plant Nursery

#Mixtureforsucculents At Little One Plat Nursery, we prepare our own growing media, which in general, come in 2 formulas: soil and peat mixture. Peat mixture works well for germination and seedlings and the proportion is coco-peat or peat moss 3: rice husk ash 2: small pumice 2: perlite 2: coarse sand 1 Soil mixture works well for full-grown plants or those that need good drainage. The proportion is soil 1: pumice 8 (small 3: medium 3: large 2): coarse sand 1 We then add slow-release fertilizer to allow the plant to absorb nutrients gradually and grow in a controlled rate so it doesn’t lose its good form. We also add Starkle G to help fight pest in the mixture. Pumice enhances water drainage, and note that we use different sized pumice. Strewn on the surface, we use red pumice to help trapping the moisture in. They should bear some weight so they do not get washed or spilled off the pot easily. Pebbles or washed sand for gardening can also be used. If cash is not the issue, Akadama can be used, so your plant would stand elegantly in the pot. Whichever mixture formulas you choose, the key is to notice how the plant responds to the new substrate, and adjust if needed. For example, it may need better water drainage, then add more pumice. When you get your plant into your place, the ambiance has changed from wherever it was originated from, so you must look for any change that it may react to the changes in short and long term. Adjust the growing media to best suit the plant in your own surrounding. For more information: https://youtu.be/21lUe-Ahc6c

After Long Distance Shipping. Shipping the plants over a long period of time should do without the growing media. They are to stay healthy without light and water for as long as they can. After you receive them, unwrap the root system carefully. Let dry, and store under shade for 1 night to allow the plant to adjust to the new environment. Check the plant for stench or mushy root or stem. Rip off the dry leaves, stems and root. Clean and apply fungicide. Check again that the plant is still strong from top to bottom, and roots are still moist and clear. Store under shade for 1 night to allow the plant to adjust to the new environment. Depending on the type of plant, pot it with either peat or soil growing media. ( See our formula here #Mixtureforsucculents or https://youtu.be/21lUe-Ahc6c ) Water the pot and keep under shade. Wait to see signs if the plant is still healthy, for instance, new leaf or new root shoot. Then it is ready to receive sunlight however much depends on the plant. Some leafy plants are to stay covered in a plastic bag to trap moisture that hastens plant recovery. To prepare the plant for shipping, dip into Captan protect it from rotting, and Trichoderma from fungi. Rip off the lower most leaves. Sphagnum moss may be used to cover the root system, then with aluminum foil wrap-over, to trap the moisture with the plant longer. It is now ready to be packed. Shipping with its pot is possible for domestic, as long as the substrate is not too damp or the root may rot with it. For more details: https://youtu.be/Z-2DV4P-4yg